Paula's Tour Talk

The Glassblower of Murano by Marina Fiorato

Intrigue and secrets,treachery and betrayal, love and revenge. Plus,a fascinating glimpse into the art of glassblowing. This wonderful novel has it all.

For centuries Venice held the secret of glassmaking, and supplied all Europe with glass. She guarded the secet well. Glassblowers were confined to the island of Murano, across the lagoon from the city. This was not only a precaution against fire, but also protection of the monopoly.

Glassblowers were treated well and lived in comfort, but only a rare few ever gained permission to leave the island. And, to breathe the merest whisper about their art to an outsider meant certain death.

In The Glassblower of Murano, Marina Fiorato skillfully interweaves the tale of modern day Leonora Manin and her 17th century ancestor, Corradino Manin.

He was reputed to have been the greatest glass artist who ever lived, with marvelous mirrors and chandeliers still gracing the palazzos of Venice.

She flees London for Venice after a divorce, hoping her connection with Corradino and her small skill with glass will gain her a place among the male-dominated glass works.

 Leonora's illustrious name opens the door for her and she is hired as an apprentice glassblower. At first she is grudgingly accepted, but when her Botticelli looks give the factory owner the idea to use her in an ad campaign, ancient rivalries and accusations of treachery surface to menace her.

In her quest for information about Corradino, we enter the glittering, dangerous world of 17th century Venice. There are mysteries to unravel.

Was Corradino, as some allege, Venice's most heinous traitor? Was he the one who broke the Venetian hold on glass? Did he die an old man, or was he hunted down by Venetian assassins?

I loved how Leonora's story--complete with romance--and Corradino's amazing tale blend and complement each other. Modern day treachery and manipulation mirror the more deadly betrayals of the 17th century in elegant and surprising ways, as does devotion, friendship and true love in both times.

And I loved how Fiorato brings Venice alive. She draws vivid pictures of daily life in Venice, then and now.

Her portrait of Corradino was so compelling and seemingly true that you will want to learn more about this artist and his works. Unfortunately, as I discovered, Corradino Manin is completely fictitious.

This is a truly great read, with just the right amounts of history, mystery, suspense, and romance. I'm thinking of suggesting The Glassblower of Murano to my book group, and will add it to Time of Your Life Tours' list recommended books for Venice.

Festa del Redentore in Venice

Although it is my dream to spend a year in Venice, I always add, "except  during the summer." That's because summer in Venice is hot, muggy, and filled to the brim with tourists. But I would love to be there the 3rd weekend in July for the Festa del Redentore.

The Festival of the Redeemer dates back to the 16th century. After a terrible time of plague which killed over 50,000 Venetians, including the artist Titian, the Doge Alvise Mocenigo II vowed to build a church in thanks if the plague ended.

 

He kept his word, and commissioned architect Andrea Palladio to build a magnificent church on the island of Guidecca, Il Redentore.

The festival began even before the church was finished and consecrated in 1592. When the foundation stone was laid, a small wooden church was hastily erected, and a bridge of barges from Zattere out to Guidecca enabled the Doge to walk in procession to the church and give thanks for the city's delivery from the plague.

The practice was kept up every year by the ruling Doge. Today, on Sunday evening, His Eminence Cardinal  Patriarch  Angelo Scola will lead the procession of important city officials across the barge bridge to Il Redentore for a solemn mass of thanksgiving.

But the festival runs all weekend. On Saturday, there's music, food, and fireworks. Venetians decorate their boats and find a spot in the basin of San Marco, enjoy a lavish dinner, and wait for the fireworks to begin around 11:30 pm. It's said to be one of the most spectacular fireworks displays in one of the most beautiful settings in the world.

The unlucky ones without a boat crowd Piazza San Marco where music plays and everyone dances.

Before the procession in Sunday, there are regattas and more fun.

You can check out the official program at here. 

Someday, I'd like to see it all.

Want to Sound Like an Italian?

Check out this short, smart guide to Italian pronunciation at Miss Expatria's delightful blog. Following her guidelines will save save you from embarrassing mistakes, and, I hope, give you the confidence to try your Italian.

And, I completely agree with her suggestion--it's one I make all the time--if you are going to Italy, take some time and learn some basic phrases.

It's not that you'll need to speak Italian, you can get by just fine without it. But it's fun, it will add to your enjoyment, and your efforts will be appreciated.

Plus, in my opinion, it's important to know basic polite phrases like please, thank you, and excuse me wherever you travel. Knowing a bit more is fun, but these basics are essential.

Recommended resources: 

15-minute Italian  (book and CD), a fine short course on basic phrases with little grammar, but much good vocabulary.

 Learn Italian Pod.com offers loads of free podcasts (or you can listen on your computer) including basic phrases, How-to's in Italian (for example, how to order in a restaurant), and beginning through advanced language lessons.

If you have Italian language resources that have worked for you, please let me know. And, of course, I'd love to hear your stories about speaking Italian on your trips.

Guide to Restaurants in Italy

I just came across this very good little article about the various types of restaurants in Italy, how to order, and some advice on tipping. 

However, I don't agree with one thing: the article says that you do not have to tip when a service charge is included on your bill.

Here's the thing: that service charge does not go to the waiter,as you might imagine. It goes to the house to help pay the server's salary. I always tip about 10% in cash for good service in a restaurant in Italy.

Of course, when you travel with Time of Your Life Tours, you don't have to worry about any of this. We have selected excellent restaurants, you get to order whatever you like from the full menu, and we take care of tipping.

Florence's San Miniato

 

I love to watch the sunset while sipping a glass of wine high above Florence on the Piazzale Michelangelo. It's a vantage point for some of the best (and most photographed) views of Florence, and home to a copy of the David and stands selling souvenirs and crafts.

It's a three mile, mostly uphill, walk from the Ponte Vecchio. Or, you can take the # 12 or 13 bus.

 If you go, I recommend stopping at the ancient church of San Miniato, just above the Piazzale.

San Miniato was begun over 1000 years ago (completed in 1207) on the site where several Christian martyrs are believed to have been buried. St. Minias was a 3rd century Greek, or perhaps  an Armenian prince, who converted to Christianity and ran afoul of the Emperor Decius and his troops outside the gates of Florence.

Some say he was serving in the Roman army when he decided to go AWOL and become a hermit; others say he was on a pilgrimage to Rome when accosted by the Emperor's men and denounced as a Christian.

All accounts agree that St Minias was decapitated for his faith. Legend says that the saint picked up his head, carried it across the Arno, and climbed up the hill to the site of his hermitage where he finally laid down and died.

First came a shrine and later the church of San Minato was built on the site. The Romanesque church was largely financed by the members of the powerful Arte di Calamala (the wool importers guild). You can find their symbol-a bronze eagle clutching a bale of wool in his talons--atop the facade. That facade is a stunning example of Romanesque geometric style in white Carrara and green Prato marble.

The church interior is quite unusual with a raised choir above the crypt. There are beautiful golden mosaics, interesting frescoes, and a magnificent chapel with ceiling decorations by Luca della Robbia.

My favorite bit is the floor with its large zodiac pattern of inlaid marble. The zodiac is frequently found in Christian churches, as the 12 signs were interpreted as symbolic of the 12 Apostles. This zodiac wheel was probably also a sun dial that captured the light from the high windows and showed the time.

Two last things to know: Carlo Collodi, author of Pinocchio is buried is San Miniato.

And, Michelangelo once hastily built fortifications around the church and its adjacent buildings when Holy Roman Emperor Charles V laid siege to Florence in 1530. He is credited with saving the life of a soldier stationed as a lookout in the bell tower. Because the tower would be a target for cannon fire, Michelangelo hung matresses all around it, to soften the blows. The city eventually fell to the siege, the fortifications are long gone, but the church still stands.

San Miniato is free to visit and open every day from 8 am until noon, and then from 2:30 until 6pm (hours change, so check before you go). The Olivetan monks who run the church sell their homemade liqueurs, honey, and tisanes from a small shop next door.

You can see a lovely panoramic image of the church lit up at night here.

Florence's Santa Maria Novella

Across town from Santa Croce in the Piazza which bears its name (as does Florence's main train station also located here) is the magnificent church of Santa Maria Novella.

Called "novella," new, because it was built on the site of a small church outside the city limits called Santa Maria del Vigne (of the vineyards).  The "new" church was begun in the late 10th century.

When St. Dominic sent a small group of Dominican friars to Florence in 1221, it was given to them and soon became a center of learning and culture. The Dominicans' chief role was preaching against heresy and teaching Catholic dogma. They were Inquisitors in later centuries.

Wealthy Florentines contributed vast sums of money and Santa Maria Novella was augmented and re-done many times. For centuries it was also the site of a university that drew students from all over Europe. Dante studied here.

It also played an important role in the cultural life of the city. Many popes and dignitaries were housed here when visiting. Processions and festivals took place in the vast open space in front of the church. And fiery preachers railed against heresy and error, most notably St. Peter Martyr (who was killed by members of the heretical Cathars near Milan in 1252).

The first sermon condemning Galileo for his scientific treatises was preached from the pulpit here.

But these are not the reasons for you to visit Santa Maria Novella today. You will want to see the many famous works of art, including  Masaccio's Trinity, the first painting to incorporate the new ideas of perspective.

(It's easy to see Jesus and God the Father, but hard to find the Holy Spirit. Look closely. What appears to be the collar of the Father's robe is actually a dove, the most common representation of the Spirit).

Santa Maria Novella is a treasure house of art. A guidebook or audio guide (available for a small fee at the entrance) is a good idea.

There are works by Botticelli (a Nativity above the door), Brunelleschi's Crucifix, frescoes by Uccello, Ghilandaio, Nardo di Cione and much more. My favorites are the Ghirlandaio frescoes in the Tornabuoni Chapel.

The gorgeous frescoes on the right side of the chapel depict scenes from the life of the Virgin Mary.  What I love is that all the figures are dressed as 14th century Florentine ladies and offer a glimpse of life in the Renaissance.

There's so much more I could tell you about this church, about its treasures, gardens, marble facade, but space does not allow. Here's a link to the museum of Santa Maria Novella where you'll find more information and excellent images.

Of course, when you visit, be sure to take time see the nearby Officina Profumo di SMN. Famous for its soaps, perfumes and remedies, it's an unforgettable experience and a great place for gifts.

Both the church and the perfumery are favorites of our clients on Time of Your Life Tours.