Although it is my dream to spend a year in Venice, I always add, "except during the summer." That's because summer in Venice is hot, muggy, and filled to the brim with tourists. But I would love to be there the 3rd weekend in July for the Festa del Redentore.
The Festival of the Redeemer dates back to the 16th century. After a terrible time of plague which killed over 50,000 Venetians, including the artist Titian, the Doge Alvise Mocenigo II vowed to build a church in thanks if the plague ended.
He kept his word, and commissioned architect Andrea Palladio to build a magnificent church on the island of Guidecca, Il Redentore.
The festival began even before the church was finished and consecrated in 1592. When the foundation stone was laid, a small wooden church was hastily erected, and a bridge of barges from Zattere out to Guidecca enabled the Doge to walk in procession to the church and give thanks for the city's delivery from the plague.
The practice was kept up every year by the ruling Doge. Today, on Sunday evening, His Eminence Cardinal Patriarch Angelo Scola will lead the procession of important city officials across the barge bridge to Il Redentore for a solemn mass of thanksgiving.
But the festival runs all weekend. On Saturday, there's music, food, and fireworks. Venetians decorate their boats and find a spot in the basin of San Marco, enjoy a lavish dinner, and wait for the fireworks to begin around 11:30 pm. It's said to be one of the most spectacular fireworks displays in one
of the most beautiful settings in the world.
The unlucky ones without a boat crowd Piazza San Marco where music plays and everyone dances.
Before the procession in Sunday, there are regattas and more fun.
You can check out the official program at here.
Someday, I'd like to see it all.
