Paula's Tour Talk

Espresso on My Mind

When Italians walk into their favorite bar and order un caffe' (pronounced oon cahf-FEH) they will automatically get an espresso, served in a porcelain demitasse cup (tazzina) with its own saucer and little stirring spoon. Most will add a packet or two of sugar, stir it in, and drink the sweet delicious coffee in a quick sip or two.

As a tourist, you will probably have to specifically order un espresso to get the same thing.

Order un caffe' and you will most likely get an "American coffee" which is similar to Starbucks' Americano--a shot of espresso with hot water added and served in a large coffee cup.

That is, unless you stop in the same bar for your drink for a few days in a row. In that case, the barman will most likely begin to remember you and your drink of choice.

Remember, a bar in Italy is quite different from one in America. It's not strictly for consuming alcoholic drinks. It's a social center for regulars who may stop in several times during the day for coffee, and again in the evening for an apertivo before dinner. Everyone has their local favorite bar.

Pastries are available in the morning and often panini and other snacks can be purchased throughout the day. Of course, anyone is welcome to stop in for a drink and a bite.

One of the things I long for most when I am home between tours, is a perfect cup of espresso. The memory of the delicious aroma and deep rich flavor of un caffe' (I like mine with a little less than one packet of sugar) can instantly transport me back to my favorite bar in Florence--at least in my mind.

The word espresso has two sources. It's derived from the Italian verb esprimere which means "pressed out."  And, it also come from the fact that coffee was sold to commuters as they boarded the express train in Milan.

However, coffee came to Italy long before trains. It came from the Ottoman Empire via Venice in about 1600.

There's a story that Pope Clement VIII was urged to ban the drink as Satanic because it was the favorite beverage of Muslims. Instead, after tasting a cup, the Pope enjoyed it so much that he decided to 'baptize' it-- thus making it Christian and removing any taint of the infidel.

True or not? I don't know.

I do know that the first coffeehouse opened in Venice in 1654.  And also that I am glad that the Italians accepted and perfected this fragrant pick-me-up.

Mmmm. Just thinking about a breakfast espresso and a flaky cornetto (an Italian croissant) makes me want to hop on a plane tonight...

The Titans of Venetian Art

Although I personally prefer the works of fifteenth century Venetian artists like the various Bellinis, and Vivarini, Carpaccio and Giorgione, the big three in Venice are Titian, Tintoretto, and Veronese.

These are the artistic giants, whose monumental works adorn the palaces, hang in all the world's major museums, and who figure large in art history classes. I've been studying their works and learning to appreciate their greatness--even if they'll never be my absolute favorites.

A blockbuster show called Titian, Tintoretto, and Veronese: Rivals in Renaissance Venice just opened  at the Museum of Fine Arts in Boston. You can get a wonderful overview of these artists and learn about their fierce competition for commissions and for fame, and see many of their works by visiting the exhibition's online site. 

Check it out. You'll find fascinating short articles and a couple of excellent slide shows of the art, including an intriguing piece on what conservators discovered beneath Tintoretto's Nativity.

There was also a terrific article in the March 12th issue of the New York Times, called Passion of the Moment: A Triptych of Masters.  Journalist Holland Cotter offers what amounts to a short course on Venetian art and these artists. There's a slide show of the works here too.

Now I know why Titian's painting of Flora the goddess of spring (that's her above) was not in its usual spot in the Uffizi Museum last time I was in Florence.  It's one of the works in the guide I've written for Time of Your Life Tour clients and I missed her.

These resources have re-ignited my ambition to learn more about these titans, and I hope they inspire you too.

Do you like hearing about these articles and resources? Leave a comment and let me know what you think.

The Deeper Joys of Travel

I am pleased that my latest article, The Deeper Joys of Travel, is published in the March edition of Kalon Women magazine--a terrific online site for women over 40.

You can find it at Kalon Women . There's no permalink, so you have to click on Making A Difference in the list on the left of the page. Then scroll down to the second article.

I'd love to hear what you think. Thanks!

Chicken Thighs Italian Style

I am waiting for spring and asparagus, fresh baby peas, and the lighter dishes of the season. But it's still winter, and I am bored with hearty soups and stews.

I was searching for something new to try for dinner and came across this lovely dish in an out-of-print cookbook called the Italian Food  for All Seasons.

It uses inexpensive chicken thighs and dresses them up with a bit of pancetta (thinly sliced ham can be substituted).

Involtini di Pollo all Pancetta

6 chicken thighs

1 sprig fresh rosemary (or 1/2 teaspoon dried), finely chopped 

1 teaspoon dried sage, crumbled

6 cloves of garlic, finely chopped

6 paper-thin slices of pancetta

2 Tablespoons extra virgin olive oil

salt and pepper to taste

Preheat the oven to 350 degrees. Remove the skin from the thighs. Mix the chopped rosemary, sage, garlic, salt and pepper in a shallow bowl, and roll the thighs in the mixture to coat well.

Roll each thigh in a slice of pancetta.  Coat the bottom of a roasting pan with one tablespoon of the oil, arrange the thighs in the pan, and brush them with the rest of the olive oil.

Cook for one hour, turning once halfway through. Remove the chicken from the pan and put on a warm platter. Add a little water to the roasting pan and deglaze the cooking juices over medium heat. Pour over the thighs and serve.

Serve with a simple risotto, green salad, a dish of black olives, sliced oranges and warm crusty bread for a delicious dinner that everyone will enjoy. Add a glass of wine and light some candles and you have a feast to chase the end of winter blues away.


Buon appetito!