It's one thing to arrive in medieval San Gimignano (that's ji-mi-NYA-no, the "i's" are short and the "o" is long) by car or bus, driving through the beautiful Tuscan countryside of vineyards and gently rolling hills. But imagine how it must have been in the 13th and 14th century, walking through those hills and fields and suddenly seeing a city of towers up ahead.
San Gimignano prospered from the mid-twelfth century because it was along Via Francigena, the major trading and pilgrimage road from France to Rome and Brindisi, where ships sailed for Jerusalem. There were once some 72 towers built by the wealthy for protection and prestige. It must have truly been a remarkable sight.
It is still an amazing place, even though only 15 towers are left completely standing. It's one of UNESCO's World Archeological Heritage sites, and a charming place to visit. 
The main church, the Collegiata, may look dull on the outside, but inside is another story. The walls are almost completely covered in glowing frescoes, including "inferno" and "paradiso," Benozzo Gozzoli's St.
Sebastian (on the right), and cycles of the Old and New Testaments. And don't miss the Capella di Santa Fina off the right-hand aisle. She is San Gimignano's patron saint and you can see her life story there in frescoes painted by Domenico Ghirlandaio.
You can also visit the Piazza del Popolo, the town's art museum (and the home of the town council even today) where you'll find some lovely works by Sienese and Florentine artists. Or for a spectacular view, pay the small fee and you can climb the Torre Grossa.
There are also many shops to browse (this is a popular tourist destination, after all), and cafes where you can sit and enjoy an espresso, a glass of the what many consider Italy's finest white wine--Vernaccia di San Gimignano, or a gelato (the Gelateria di Piazza on the main square is justly famous).
When I last visited in October 2006, I wandered through the narrow streets and happened upon a small, ancient square where musicians playing flute and harp took turns. Each one played a mix of familiar pieces and their own compositions and I enjoyed a wonderful, and nearly private, concert for about an hour. I bought both their CD's, too.
You can find a lot more information on San Gimignano's official website. It's also one of the places we visit on many of our tours.


