Paula's Tour Talk

Marlena de Blasi

The picture of author Marlena de Blasi that emerges from her books is of a sensual, artistic, loving, larger-than-life, vital woman, who can also, at times, be a bit self-centered, stubborn, frustrating, certainly outrageous and always rather charming. As you might guess, I find her books both incredibly intriguing and  occasionally annoying, and I'm always happy to read about her latest adventures about her life in Italy.

After A Thousand Days In Venice (the very romantic story of how she met her husband and moved to Venice, leaving her old life behind) and A Thousand Days in Tuscany (the story of their move to a small village, filled with tales of truffle hunting, grape harvests and the rhythms of daily life), The Lady in the Palazzo continues their saga. This latest installment details the couple's ups and downs while they renovate a former ballroom in an ancient palazzo in the Umbrian town of Orvieto. I think it's my favorite of the trio.

Perhaps because I haven't been there (yet), De Blasi's description of this hilltop town made me long to see it. Her tale of feuding aristocrats, rural laborers, and clannish townspeople is a true delight. Her lyrical descriptions of the sights, sounds, and smells make it seem as though you are right there, experiencing it all. Plus, she seems to have a knack not only for for making friends of nearly everyone she encounters, but also for revealing the depth and beauty of the people she meets and the places she loves. And then, of course, there's food.

In addition to these memoirs, De Blasi is the author of many articles and books about food, including Regional Foods of Northern Italy: Recipes and Remembrances and A Taste of Southern Italy: Delicious Recipes and a Dash of Culture. So, it's no surprise that her books about Venice, Tuscany and Umbria are laced with mouthwatering descriptions of feasts, simple but perfect meals, street food and treats--often with the recipes included. It makes me hungry just remembering...

At a time when bookstore shelves are loaded with books about the expatriate life in Italy, Marlena de Blasi's stand out for their authenticity, beauty, and warmth. You may not like everything about her, but there's no denying she is a generous, exceedingly warm-hearted, creative, and engaging author. Her books fairly glow with her love of life. I think they make great reading and great fuel for your dreams of Italy.

Let me know what you think!

Brunelleschi's Marvelous Dome

Instantly recognizable, Florence's cathedral dome is a Renaissance masterpiece. But did you know that when the Cathedral ("duomo" in Italian)was dedicated to Santa Maria Fiore (Our Lady of the Flowers) in 1412, the roof was open to the sky?  The priests and the worshippers were at the mercy of the weather and the pigeons for many years. No one had any idea how to build a dome large enough to cover the gaping hole.

There had never been a plan or even a design for the dome. In addition, there was the problem of "centering." Centering was the traditional wooden framework used to support a dome while it was being constructed. But, the dome needed for the cathedral would have to have a span of some 140 feet--a whole forest of wooden beams would be required, and it was unlikely that any timber could be found that would be long enough or strong enough to do the job.

So, in 1420, a competition was held and experts from all over Italy came with suggestions of how the work might proceed. Most of the ideas were ludicrous and none seemed feasible. For instance, one idea was to bring in a huge mound of dirt, reaching to the opening, and adding to it as the dome was built. The mound would contain gold and silver coins. This way, the "expert" reasoned, the people of Florence would be eager to help remove the gigantic pile in the hopes of finding the buried treasure...

Other ideas were not much better, until Filippo Brunelleschi (Broo-nel-LAY-ski), an artist and architect, stepped up. He claimed that he had a design that would only require scaffolding for the builders (and not huge supports for the structure). The others all laughed and dared him to show this "impossible" design. But Brunelleschi refused, saying that if he did, someone would steal his idea.

Instead, he offered an ingenious demonstration. He challenged the other architects to a contest, and asked the Opera del Duomo (the commissioners in charge of the project) to award the contract to whoever was able to stand an egg on its end on a flat piece of marble. No matter how hard they tried, no one could do this equally "impossible" feat. Then, Brunelleschi took the egg; he gently cracked its bottom and stood it upright.

All the others loudly protested that they, too, could have done the same.  Brunelleschi laughed and said that was his point: if he showed his design, they would all know how to build the dome. He agreed to show the Opera del Duomo his plans in private, and they awarded him the commission.

His plan was essentially to build two domes, one inside the other. Both were built with interlocking brickwork called herringbone, which is self-supporting. This eliminated the need for centering. He also used stone posts and wooden beams to help hold the dome together. Between each of its eight sides, vertical stone ribs connected the inner and outer domes. He built stairways and passages in between the domes to allow the workers easy access and for future repairs. He invented a kind of donkey-powered hoist to raise heavy materials. He even put in kitchens and makeshift privies to so builders wouldn't have to climb all the way down and then back up several times a day.

It took only 16 years to complete the dome, but the lantern topping it all was not finished for another 25  years by which time Brunellschi had died.

Today you can see a statue of this genius gazing upward at his masterpiece in the Piazza el Duomo in Florence. You can also climb the 463 steps of the dome and see the marvelous herringbone construction and a great view of the city when you finally reach the top.

I'll make the climb with any willing members of our tours, and I'll tell  about Brunelleschi's many other accomplishments on the way. We'll be posting the dates and prices for our April 2008 tour in the next few weeks at Time of Your Life Tours.

Judith's Painting

Here's one of the paintings Judith did on her trip to Italy. Click on it to enlarge.Go to Judith's Album to see more. I just love her work. For those of you who live in the Seattle area, her opening is tomorrow, July 14th,at Musings art co-op in Mill Creek. I'll see you there.

Notes From a Traveler

I met the charming and vivacious Judith Campanaro quite by chance, and was happy to help her plan her time in Florence. She went to Tuscany in May on a painting trip and is exhibiting her work this weekend. I am hoping to make it to her opening. She wrote this piece about her experiences and about how my advice helped. I hope all you travelers will take heed--pack light and bring comfortable shoes!

Judith writes:

I was attending Jennifer Louden'sbook signing at Third Place Books and happened to sit next to Paula. As we chatted, I told her I was planning a trip for the following month that would include time in Florence. Call it serendipity if you will, but I am a firm believer that there are no accidents. She told me about her company Time of Your Life Tours, and said she would be happy to help me, and soon became my e-mail buddy. She offered me so many tips and advice that made my dream adventure, well, the time of my life.

If you've never been to Florence, I highly recommend it. The trip taught me so much about myself. Call it a sentimental journey if you will, but it was a journey I will never forget. I came home with a clearer understanding of my heritage and with wonderful memories that will last forever.

Paula told me to pack light and I am SO glad I did! Per her suggestion, I took just a few pieces that I could mix and match--like one pair of pants, a skirt, and a couple of tops, and a sweater. That was it. I got some small toiletries at the supermarket and I was all set. My suitcase was small and light and it made for very easy handling at the airport and on the train. In fact, I had to buy another small suitcase to carry home all my treasures and souvenirs--but that, apparently, is a common problem and one that vendors anticipate. There was inexpensive luggage of all types for sale in the markets and I found just what I needed for a resonable price.

Florence is a feast of visual beauty, a city of art and culture. It is magical and seductive. There are gentle hills surrounding it, and in the distance the mountains of Chianti. The Arno River is beautiful and flows right through the city. The neighborhoods around the river on both sides are full of interesting shops. The famous Florentine Duomo is an architectural masterpiece, and there are many, many amazing churches, museums, and places to see. This is certainly a city for art lovers.

Thank goodness Paula told me to wear flat shoes! I walked everywhere and the narrow, uneven, cobblestone streets are definitely not conducive to even low heeled pumps. I'm not quite sure how those gorgeous Italian women managed in their high heels (maybe you have to be born here?), but I for one could not handle anything but my comfortable walking shoes. Just visiting the Uffizi took hours and my feet needed lots of breaks.

Nevertheless, the magnificence of the Uffizi will always remain in my memory. I especially loved seeing Botticelli's  Birth of Venus and La Primavera. There are some 42 rooms in the museum and 1500 paintings from the 13th to the 18th centuries. It was absolutely breathtaking!

The Accademia museum, built in 1784, houses Michelangelo's awesome David . There is also a David outside the Uffizi, but it's a copy. Actually, there are copies of the David all over town. You can even buy one for your very own for 5 euro. Anyway, the real David is something to behold, truly stunning.

One evening there was a concert in the piazza near the Uffizi. I was tired from all my walking, so I decided to take a rest and listen. I was sitting on a bench quietly enjoying myself when (can you believe this?) a sprightly gentleman sat down beside me, put his arm around me, and whatever he whispered sounded like a proposition to me. It took me by surprise, but I didn't feel at all threatened. And, no, I didn't accept. We just started talking in our two languages and I gathered that he is a widower and very lonely. Ha Ha--just goes to show you that even we "old" ladies can find romance in Florence. Well, Giuseppe gave me his phone number and address in case I ever change my mind, and he asked me to write to him. And, that is the end of the story.

I stayed in the lovely Hotel C. also recommended by Paula. It is a period palazzo with a rooftop terrace with a view of the Duomo. I sat up there in the evenings and enjoyed a glass of wine before dinner. The hotel is near the historic center, but away from the bustle and noise. There is a park down the street where I happily watched artists sketching. The Italians certaily appreciate art. Even the hotel was filled with beautiful original paintings and the staff and service were just as good as Paula said they would be.

A great big thanks to Paula for helping me to make my trip even more special with all her excellent advice and travel tips. Trust me, she knows her stuff. Mille grazie, la mia amica/ Ciao bella! Judith

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Thank YOU, Judith, for sharing your experiences and for your kind words. I am so glad you had a great trip.

Easy Summer Pasta

Here's a simple, healthful summer pasta with fresh vegetables that is a snap to prepare.

Fusilli Con Verdure Crude (Fusilli with Fresh Vegetables)

3 medium size ripe tomatoes (about 3/4 lbs.)

1 1/4 lb. fusilli pasta (corkscrew shape, plain or tri-color)

1 yellow bell pepper, seeded and diced

2 cloves of garlic, finely chopped

handful of fresh basil leaves

a few fresh chives

6 Tbs. extra virgin olive oil

salt and pepper (use red pepper for extra bite)

grated or shredded Parmesan cheese

Boil a large pan of water, add tomatoes, boil for 30 seconds, then remove with a slotted spoon and peel. Add salt to the boiling water; add fusilli and cook al dente( a minute or two less than the package directions). Seed the tomatoes and roughly chop. Tear basil leaves with your hands. Snip the chives with a scissors into small pieces or chop.

Places the tomatoes, garlic, and herbs in a serving dish. Add the olive oil and mix gently. Drain the pasta and add to the vegetables. Add salt and pepper to taste and toss. Serve immediately or let cool to room temperature. Pass the Parmesan to sprinkle on top. 6 servings.

Add Italian bread, pecorino or goat cheese, a dish of black olives, and wine (perhaps a chilled crisp Pinot Grigio, or a Valpolicella- if you prefer red) for a lovely light summer dinner. Or use as a side dish for simple grilled chicken or beef. Buon appetito!

See Penne with Vegetables, An Exquisite Summer Salad, and Figs and Goat Cheese for other summer recipes.

Venice and the Islamic World

The Metropolitan Museum of Art's exhibit Venice and the Islamic World runs only one more week, until July 8th. I wish I could have seen it--or convinced one of my friends in New York to go and report back to me...but alas, that was not to be. It looks like a wonderful show.

You can see some of the paintings, like Gentile Bellini's  exquisite portrait of Sultan Mehmet II  (he actually went to Istanbul and painted him from life), and you can also take a look at examples of textiles, glassware, and pottery here: images from the exhibition.

Finally, there are some great articles about Islamic influence in Venice at this link to the Met's Timeline of Art History.

This timeline is a fantastic resource that I used extensively (and that my students loved) when I taught art history; it contains a wealth of information, including articles, illustrations, maps, and more. New material is added frequently and it's worth checking out. I can get "lost" here for hours following one hyperlink after another...

I can't wait to get back to Venice in October. If you would like to join me, go to An Artful Tour of Florence and Venice for full information. We have a few spots left,  but time is running out.