Paula's Tour Talk

Florence's San Miniato

 

I love to watch the sunset while sipping a glass of wine high above Florence on the Piazzale Michelangelo. It's a vantage point for some of the best (and most photographed) views of Florence, and home to a copy of the David and stands selling souvenirs and crafts.

It's a three mile, mostly uphill, walk from the Ponte Vecchio. Or, you can take the # 12 or 13 bus.

 If you go, I recommend stopping at the ancient church of San Miniato, just above the Piazzale.

San Miniato was begun over 1000 years ago (completed in 1207) on the site where several Christian martyrs are believed to have been buried. St. Minias was a 3rd century Greek, or perhaps  an Armenian prince, who converted to Christianity and ran afoul of the Emperor Decius and his troops outside the gates of Florence.

Some say he was serving in the Roman army when he decided to go AWOL and become a hermit; others say he was on a pilgrimage to Rome when accosted by the Emperor's men and denounced as a Christian.

All accounts agree that St Minias was decapitated for his faith. Legend says that the saint picked up his head, carried it across the Arno, and climbed up the hill to the site of his hermitage where he finally laid down and died.

First came a shrine and later the church of San Minato was built on the site. The Romanesque church was largely financed by the members of the powerful Arte di Calamala (the wool importers guild). You can find their symbol-a bronze eagle clutching a bale of wool in his talons--atop the facade. That facade is a stunning example of Romanesque geometric style in white Carrara and green Prato marble.

The church interior is quite unusual with a raised choir above the crypt. There are beautiful golden mosaics, interesting frescoes, and a magnificent chapel with ceiling decorations by Luca della Robbia.

My favorite bit is the floor with its large zodiac pattern of inlaid marble. The zodiac is frequently found in Christian churches, as the 12 signs were interpreted as symbolic of the 12 Apostles. This zodiac wheel was probably also a sun dial that captured the light from the high windows and showed the time.

Two last things to know: Carlo Collodi, author of Pinocchio is buried is San Miniato.

And, Michelangelo once hastily built fortifications around the church and its adjacent buildings when Holy Roman Emperor Charles V laid siege to Florence in 1530. He is credited with saving the life of a soldier stationed as a lookout in the bell tower. Because the tower would be a target for cannon fire, Michelangelo hung matresses all around it, to soften the blows. The city eventually fell to the siege, the fortifications are long gone, but the church still stands.

San Miniato is free to visit and open every day from 8 am until noon, and then from 2:30 until 6pm (hours change, so check before you go). The Olivetan monks who run the church sell their homemade liqueurs, honey, and tisanes from a small shop next door.

You can see a lovely panoramic image of the church lit up at night here.

Florence's Santa Maria Novella

Across town from Santa Croce in the Piazza which bears its name (as does Florence's main train station also located here) is the magnificent church of Santa Maria Novella.

Called "novella," new, because it was built on the site of a small church outside the city limits called Santa Maria del Vigne (of the vineyards).  The "new" church was begun in the late 10th century.

When St. Dominic sent a small group of Dominican friars to Florence in 1221, it was given to them and soon became a center of learning and culture. The Dominicans' chief role was preaching against heresy and teaching Catholic dogma. They were Inquisitors in later centuries.

Wealthy Florentines contributed vast sums of money and Santa Maria Novella was augmented and re-done many times. For centuries it was also the site of a university that drew students from all over Europe. Dante studied here.

It also played an important role in the cultural life of the city. Many popes and dignitaries were housed here when visiting. Processions and festivals took place in the vast open space in front of the church. And fiery preachers railed against heresy and error, most notably St. Peter Martyr (who was killed by members of the heretical Cathars near Milan in 1252).

The first sermon condemning Galileo for his scientific treatises was preached from the pulpit here.

But these are not the reasons for you to visit Santa Maria Novella today. You will want to see the many famous works of art, including  Masaccio's Trinity, the first painting to incorporate the new ideas of perspective.

(It's easy to see Jesus and God the Father, but hard to find the Holy Spirit. Look closely. What appears to be the collar of the Father's robe is actually a dove, the most common representation of the Spirit).

Santa Maria Novella is a treasure house of art. A guidebook or audio guide (available for a small fee at the entrance) is a good idea.

There are works by Botticelli (a Nativity above the door), Brunelleschi's Crucifix, frescoes by Uccello, Ghilandaio, Nardo di Cione and much more. My favorites are the Ghirlandaio frescoes in the Tornabuoni Chapel.

The gorgeous frescoes on the right side of the chapel depict scenes from the life of the Virgin Mary.  What I love is that all the figures are dressed as 14th century Florentine ladies and offer a glimpse of life in the Renaissance.

There's so much more I could tell you about this church, about its treasures, gardens, marble facade, but space does not allow. Here's a link to the museum of Santa Maria Novella where you'll find more information and excellent images.

Of course, when you visit, be sure to take time see the nearby Officina Profumo di SMN. Famous for its soaps, perfumes and remedies, it's an unforgettable experience and a great place for gifts.

Both the church and the perfumery are favorites of our clients on Time of Your Life Tours.

Florence's Santa Croce

The Franciscan church of Santa Cross (the Holy Cross) is an excellent example of Italian Gothic architecture and one of Florence's grandest churches. If you have time to visit only one church, this is the one to see.

We usually visit Santa Croce on our tours, and I do an evening Art Talk about this wonderful church. I love to point out its treasures. If you go on your own, I suggest you pick up a small guide to the church (available on site) so you can fully appreciate what you will see.

Many large volumes have been written about Santa Croce, but I'd like to share a few tidbits of information here that you may not easily find elsewhere.

Although legend has it that St. Francis himself founded Santa Croce, the record shows that it was begun in 1294, over 65 years after his death.

 But in keeping with the Franciscans' central tenets of humility and poverty, the original small, plain church was built in a very poor and rather odorous district of tanneries and dye-works along the marshy banks of the Arno.

Over the centuries these humble beginnings have been overshadowed by grandeur and magnificence, and the structure you see today bears no resemblance to that first church. Important families, including the Medicis, endowed Santa Croce with gifts and legacies, and it eventually grew to cover many acres of buildings, and gardens.

The church is laid out in an Egyptian (Tau) cross, a symbol of St. Francis, with a nave and two aisles. It contains 16 chapels decorated with frescoes by a panoply of famous artists including Giottto, Taddeo Gaddi, and Domenico Veneziano.

 Like all early Franciscan churches, these frescoes depict the life of St. Francis, as well as the life of Christ and other saints in a clear narrative style that could be understood by the poor and illiterate. This makes it easier for us to understand the stories today, too.

Santa Croce is sometimes referred to as the Temple of Italian Glories because so many famous people have their tombs or monuments here--Dante, Machiavelli, Galileo, Michelangelo (his tomb is pictured on the left), and even Marconi, Fermi, and Florence Nightingale.

The church's magnificent facade was added in the 1850's by the Niccolo Matas. He honored his own religion, Judaism, by working a prominent Star of David into the design. Matas loved Santa Croce and wished to be buried there, but this was not allowed.

Today, there is a fine museum on the church grounds with much to see, including the Cimabue crucifix that was so badly damaged in the 1966 floods.

There's also a famous Leather School connected to the church where you can see displays of fine leather work, tools, and of course, purchase leather coats, bags, wallets, and other goods.

The lively Piazza Santa Croce in front the the church is often filled with vendors selling watercolors and souvenirs. There are many cafes and restaurants on the square too.

5 Best Churches in Florence

When you visit Florence, of course you will see the Duomo, the cathedral. Although the magnificent marble facade and Brunelleschi's famous dome are far more remarkable than the cathedral's interior, a look inside is a must.

By the way, the word, duomo comes from the Latin word domus-- house, for house of God. All Italian cathedrals are called duomo, and the name has nothing to do with domes.

But Florence has other wonderful churches well worth a spot on your itinerary. Here are my top five:

  Santa Croce--Huge Gothic church with frescoes by Giotto in the Bardi Chapel, the Pazzi Chapel designed  by Brunelleschi, tombs of many famous Florentines including Michelangelo, Machiavelli, Galileo, and Rossini, and it's own museum and extensive grounds.

Santa Maria Novella--Masaccio's masterpiece, Trinita', fresoces by Ghirlandaio, Ucello, and Filippino Lippi, and a large crucifix by Giotto.

Orsanmichele-- a grain storehouse turned church, with statues by Donatello and Verrocchio in niches on the exterior, a monumental tabernacle, and a lovely Madonna and Child by Bernardo Daddi. 

San Miniato al Monte--Florence's only Romanesque church, perched high above the city near Piazzale Michelangelo. A dramatic and unusual interior trompe d'oeil effect of paint appearing to be marble inlay, fresco cycle by Spinelli Aretino.

Santa Maria del Carmine--famous for the brilliant fresco cycles by Masaccio and Masolino in the Brancacci Chapel. 

I'll be writing more about each of these churches in the next week or so (except for Orsanmichele, which you can read about here).

There are many many more churches well worth seeing in Florence, but these are truly must-sees when your time is limited. We visit all of these with our clients on Time of Tour Life Tours, and we hope you see them someday, too.

Something Different for Dinner--Lamb Ragu

Molise is a small region in southern Italy. It's a sparsely populated, rugged, mountainous area, perfect for raising sheep. A friend whose family is orginally from the Molise recently sent me a great recipe for a lamb ragu that I think you will enjoy.

Fusilli con Ragu d'Agnello all Molisana , or  Corkscrew Pasta with Lamb Sauce in the style of Molise, is a wonderful alternative to the usual beef or pork ragus. Plus, it's quick and easy to prepare.

The name fusilli comes from an implement resembling a knitting needle that was used to form pasta dough into a twisted corkscrew shape. It's the ideal pasta for catching this sauce in its curves and grooves.

Fusilli con Ragu d"Agnello all Molisana

3 cloves garlic, minced
2 Tablespoons fresh rosemary, minced with the garlic
1/4 cup extra-virgin olive oil
2 bay leaves
2 sweet red bell peppers, seeded and diced
1 small hot red pepper, seeded and diced OR 1 teaspoon red pepper flakes
1 pound ground lamb
2/3 cup dry white wine
1 16-ounce can plum tomatoes with their juice, roughly chopped
salt and fresh pepper
1 pound fusilli
grated pecorino cheese

Mince the garlic and rosemary together. Heat the olive oil over medium heat in a large saucepan and cook the garlic mixture and bay leaves until garlic softens (but do not brown).

Stir in peppers and cook for 2 minutes until they soften. Stir in the lamb and brown it slowly, breaking it up with a spoon as it cooks. Turn the heat up to medium high, add the wine, and stir until most of the wine evaporates.

Stir in the tomatoes and add salt and pepper to taste. Cover and reduce heat to a simmer and cook for 30 minutes. When done, remove the whole bay leaves and discard.

Cook the fusilli according to package directions. Drain and add to the saucepan. Stir to coat with sauce. Put in a big bowl and sprinkle with the cheese.

8 servings

Add a salad of mixed greens dressed with olive oil and vinegar, crusty bread, and a simple red wine and enjoy. Buon appetito!